Candyce H. Stapen

From atop the cliffside Castillo (castle), Tulum’s most important building, the crashing waves and the calls of the sea birds conjure visions of this once-vital Maya seaport. Tulum is one of the treasures of the Riviera Maya, a swath of about 85 miles along Mexico’s Caribbean coast that stretches from south of Puerto Morelos (some maps include Puerto Morelos) to Punta Allen, the gateway to Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Other reasons to visit the Riviera Maya and Cozumel areas: snorkeling and diving the world’s second-largest barrier reef, swimming in underground rivers called 

 sunning on sandy beaches, and, especially if you have kids, visiting nearby eco-adventure parks. Our favorite place to stay: the top-rated Grand Velas Riviera Maya resort. 

Grand Velas Riviera Maya is a rarity: an all-inclusive property that’s earned AAA’s highest rating of Five Diamonds. Forget about small rooms, limited spas and recycled buffet food. The accommodations are called suites because they range between 1,184 and 1,378 square feet. That makes each one bigger than a typical one-bedroom apartment in Manhattan. 

Perfect because we need something special to celebrate a milestone birthday. Because we invited extended family as our guests, we want luxury, good food, a soothing spa, plus the safety-net of a fixed price. Grand Velas Riviera Maya delivers all that and more.

Upon entering the resort’s grounds, we drive through acres of dense thickets, part of the property’s conservation of the natural landscape, until we reach the beachfront Ambassador section, one of the resort’s 3 “ambiances,” or room locations. We select the family-friendly, horseshoe-shaped Ambassador area because of its sweeping ocean view. The adults-only Grand Class, also beachfront, offers a quieter outdoor area and the largest rooms. The less expensive Zen Jungle Section, set amid tropical trees and mangrove thickets, is close to the Convention Center and far enough away from the water to require a shuttle ride.   

The author, wading through mangroves at Sian Ka'an.

Along with the location, we enjoy the resort’s feeling of expansiveness. It’s not just the 80-acre setting that affords breathing space. The outsized rooms, the 100-foot-high 

(thatched roof) that tops the Ambassador’s open lobby, and its panoramic view of infinity pools that stretch to the sea add to sense of space and calm.

We shake off jet lag by going to the 76,000-square-foot spa to soak in the Riviera Maya Water Journey. The 7-element hydrotherapy circuit comes complimentary to all guests with spa appointments. We soak under waterfall sprays and loosen tight muscles with all manner of water jets. We inhale calming scents in the herbal steam room, slather medicinal clay on our skin in the mud room, rinse off in the multi-headed shower, and cool down in the ice room, where yes, we rub cold cubes on our skin. After that, thoroughly mellow, we could have gone back to our room, but the best was yet to be: a wrap and a massage by a well-trained therapist.

On another day after another pampering treatment, (did we say “special birthday?”) we simply order dinner delivered to our room. After all, room service is included in the price and none of Grand Velas’ several specialty restaurants costs extra.

The resort’s signature dining experience, Cocina de Autor, is the first restaurant at a luxury all-inclusive to be awarded Five Diamonds by AAA. Serving Spanish fare, the chefs’ inspiration for flavors and sauces comes from the items’ chemical composition. The molecular cuisine creates more than a few surprises during the meal. Items melt in our mouths, the tuna has a mint flavor, and mostly the mixtures taste good. Only one of us would have preferred what he called “a straight-forward meal.”

Frida, the Mexican restaurant, and Sen Lin, the Asian restaurant, prove to be our favorites. While not flawless, the food at Grand Velas is very good. We still remember the veal ossobuco at Frida, the Mexican restaurant. At Sen Lin, we especially like the crab tempura and order extra helpings of udon noodles with seafood, but we find the Chilean sea bass just okay. At all the restaurants, the arrival of the wine cart is the only reminder that we are at an all-inclusive. The waiters pour a limited selection of reasonably good house wines for free, but premium wines cost extra.

A supervised children’s program operates for ages 4 to 12 and, seasonally, the hotel offers a teen activities. Staff engage teens in snorkeling, kayaking, pedal boats, waterpolo, and other activities.

Grand Velas isn’t perfect. While the beach stretches for 1,000-feet, a few times the resort ran out of shade umbrellas. The swimming area, created by a breakwater, is relatively small. Everything else is so nice, including the beach staff who keep restocking us with cool drinks, strawberry ices, and nacho snacks, that we, a family of swimmers, could overlook the limited locale for swimming.

One day while lunching at Azul at an outdoor table, we happily watch the surf and enjoy the fresh lobster tacos. As our relative comments “life is really good.”

Tulum is a compelling site. On a walk through the 60-acre excavation of this once powerful Maya seaport, we learn much the ancient site and Maya culture. One of the last major city-states, Tulum, in its heyday from the 12

, served as an important center for maritime trade. Canoes carrying feathers, jade, furs, herbs, salt, and honey navigated a network of inland canals dug by the Maya.  

Only noble families, our guide explains, lived within the walls; the commoners farmed the fields outside. He points out the upside down carvings of the site’s protector god, the Descending God, located above some doorways; shows us the stone arch formation that became known as the Maya arch (korbel arch)and demonstrates how to use the “sundials,” small openings in the limestone. The Maya aligned their major buildings so that on the summer solstice, June 21, and on the winter solstice, Dec. 21, these small holes captured the sun, creating a straight line to the city’s entrance.

From the Castillo, (castle), which rises above limestone cliffs overlooking the Caribbean, we listen to the crashing waves and the calls of the sea birds, sensing the rhythms of this once-vital sea port. From Playa del Carmen, Tulum is one-and-a-half hours away. 

, combines a Tulum tour with a visit to Xel-Ha, a waterpark 8 miles away.

Alltournative Tours offers a Tulum visit plus a 

 (or sinkhole) exploration and snorkeling in a cavern. 

Explore a World Heritage Site: Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve.

 In Maya the name means “where the sky is born.” A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the reserve covers 1.5 million acres of jungles, marshlands, mangroves, and beaches, including 22 Maya sites as well as more than 62 miles of the Great Maya Reef.  Members of the Maya community lead these off-the-beaten-path tours, something we appreciate. We also like that as a biosphere, access to the public is limited. Encountering only some 15 other visitors all day, makes it easy for us to time travel back to site’s Mayan heyday.

On the Muyil Forest & Float tour, we walk through the dense forest (bring bug spray), view little-visited Maya ruins, see spider monkey jumping in the tree branches, then board a boat to cross the Chunyaxche lagoon where we spot egrets. The wide stretch of water meets the blue sky and we understand why the area earned its name. Once in the canals dug by the Mayas, our guide encourages us to jump into the water and float on our backs, eye-level to the thick mangrove roots lining the channel. Reserve tours in advance.  

. Thousands of cenotes dot the Riviera Maya. These formed when the region’s porous limestone gave way, revealing miles of underground rivers.  The ancient Maya used the cenotes as sources for freshwater and sometimes as sites for sacred ceremonies.

Entering most cenotes requires wriggling down a rope, then jumping into the sinkhole’s cold river. For us, Rio Secreto is more welcoming. All we need to do is walk into the mouth of the cave. As we go deeper into the underground passages led by our guide, we encounter more water. At first we step over rivulets, then further in we wade through ankle-deep streams. At one point, we must swim through the cavern, squeezing under a low cave ceiling. The route takes us past hundreds of formations, including stalactites and stalagmites. Some meet forming columns, some cluster together like popcorn, and others form pleats like draperies. Along the way the guide points out the colorless fish in the ponds. In parts of the cave, all that we hear is the slow drip of water. Exploring Rio Secreto is an interesting and exhilarating outing. 

The tour fee includes wet suits, water shoes, life vest, hardhat with lamp, towels and a locker. 

Visit eco-adventure parks: Xplor, Xcaret. and Xel-Ha 

Xplor, Xcaret, and Xel-Ha add man-made thrills to the Yucatan’s natural beauty.

At Xplor Park Canucn, (actually in Playa del Carmen adjacent to Xcaret), combine gliding along ziplines with swimming and rafting in a cenote and driving a Jeep-like, amphibious vehicle across suspended bridges and into a cavern. The trail of 14 ziplines, some as high as 145-feet, affords thrills as well as panoramic views of sea and sand. We especially like paddling a raft with our hands and swimming the 600-yard circuit in Xplor’s cenote as the water remains a comfortable 72 degrees Fahrenheit. We could have skipped the driving tour. Bouncing along the hot, dusty rutted roads was not our idea of fun, although we could hear others whoop and holler with joy.

Xcaret Eco-Archeological Park is near Xplor while Xel-Ha is closer to Playa del Carmen. Both parks offer more thrills than true eco-adventures and both parks draw crowds, especially when cruise ships anchor in Cozumel. Nonetheless, either park is fun, especially for kids. We like Xcaret best because it has more animals than the other 2 parks and Xcaret’s evening folkloric show, Xcaret Mexico Espectacular, features lively dancers in colorful regalia.

At Xcaret, see scarlet macaws, Yucatan parrots, pink flamingoes, and other exotic birds at the aviary. Watch hundreds of delicate butterflies flitter in the Butterfly Pavilion, observe turtles and manatees in coves; admire coral reefs and fish in the aquarium and at the jaguar enclosure, stare back at the largest cats on the American continent. For extra fees, swim with dolphins or nurse sharks; snorkel with stingrays; spin on a fast boat as it speeds and turns through the park’s waters, or view underwater life without knowing how to dive by trying either Snuba (put a breathing apparatus in your mouth) or Sea Trek (don a helmet which has air pumped into it. Your face does not get wet).      

Xel-Ha, more water-focused than Xcaret or Xplor, also offers Snuba and Sea Trek (extra fees). We sit on inner tubes to float on the river. When the current slows, we arm-paddle. The park also offers ziplines.   

It’s best to avoid all 3 parks on days when the cruise ships are in Cozumel or limit exposure to the crowds by arriving to the parks in the afternoon. Xplor Park Cancun, 

Cozumel, an island 12 miles offshore of Playa del Carmen, is a 45-minute, sometimes rough, ferry ride away. Known for its spectacular diving and snorkeling, Cozumel’s visibility nears 100-feet in places and there’s much to see. The second largest barrier reef system in the world, the Great Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, lies off Cozumel’s shores, stretching for 1,500 miles down the Caribbean to Central America. 

Although you can snorkel off sandy beaches in places, the best snorkeling and diving is found over the deeper reefs reached by boat. Go with an experienced tour operator who knows the local conditions because the current in this region can be swift. That can be great for drift diving and often scary for snorkelers.

At Palancar Reef, a Cozumel legend that stretches more than three miles, view large coral heads, big barrel sponges and sea fans swaying in the current. Along with schools of rainbow-colored fish, Paradise Reef features star coral and brain coral. Other good sites include Colombia Shallows and El Cielo, a sandbar whose surrounding seas harbor abundant star fish. Isla Cozumel, 

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From a cliffside castillo to a trio of eco-adventure parks, the 85-mile stretch along Mexico's Caribbean coast offers a wide range of fun in the sun for adventurous travelers, and luxurious splendor for those looking to get away from it all. 

Sol Searching: Luxury and Adventure Await at Mexico's Riviera Maya and Cozumel

Two-by-two, the wildebeest come in a seemingly endless line of gray that cuts through the Masai Mara’s golden plains. The wildebeest and their migrating companions, the zebra, move toward the Mara River. Hundreds upon hundreds of animals mass on the savannah just above the river bank, braying as they push into already crowded circles. The air is thick with expectation.

Everyone waits. Watching from our Land Cruiser on the river bank opposite the animals, my daughter Alissa and I finish our lunch of sandwiches and cookies. Wisely, James Massek, our ranger guide from & Beyond’s sister camps in Kenya, Kichewa Tembo and Bateleur, suggest we opt for a day-long drive so that we could travel far enough to catch the migration. Bateleur packs a picnic for us.

Catching a river crossing is part science and part luck. Timing is key. The migration to the high grass of Kenya from Tanzania’s Serengeti takes place July-October and the journey back starts around December-January, after the herds have grazed the plains’ red oat grass to stubble. But the schedule varies depending on the rain and the animals. That’s why & Beyond advises us to book lodgings in both Kenya and in Tanzania at Klein’s Camp not far from Kenya’s border.

James, a Masai tribe member, drives us to a narrow bend in the river near the Kiboko camps, a place the herds have crossed in prior years. We watch as first one wildebeest and then another and then more come down to the river to drink and to sniff before returning up the bank.

Finally, one wildebeest leaps into the water. In the next second, the animals braying loudly jump into the river, kicking up a swirl of dust and river spray. A few get picked off by the 10-foot crocodiles patiently waiting in the water, but most of the wildebeest and zebras swim to safety, trotting up the river bank, their backs slick and shiny in the African sun.

A safari always rewards. Witnessing the migration of 1.5 million wildebeest accompanied by 500,000 zebras is amazing. 

Two-by-two, the wildebeest come in a seemingly endless line of gray that cuts through the Masai Mara's golden plains. The wildebeest and their migrating companions, the zebra, move toward the Mara River. Hundreds upon hundreds of animals mass on the savannah just above the river bank, braying as they push into already crowded circles. The air is thick with expectation.

Dream Trips: Catching the Migration in Kenya 

Ears twitching and snouts semi-submerged in the water, the hippos, in chorus-line formation, stare back at us as the guide maneuvers our small boat through the grass-lined channels of the flooded Okavango Delta. A young bull elephant, his reflection caught in the silvery water, cools off by arcing his trunk and spraying his back and a crocodile suns on a sandbar. Near camp, scores of tiny birds, the colors of emeralds and sapphires, flit in and out of nests burrowed in the soft mud of the banks.

Botswana’s Okavango Delta, stretching for some 4.45 million acres, reigns as the world’s largest inland delta. The region became the 1,000

 UNESCO World Heritage site on June 22. Starting in late March or early April, the flood waters from Angola reach the Delta’s Kalahari sands, cresting in June or July. That’s when the desert morphs into a floodplain of reeds and grasses, when papyrus-lined waterways branch off from lagoons and wide channels of water surround the land, creating islands.

The various habitats attract different animals. Hippos don’t like deep water because they can’t swim. Instead, they bounce their thick legs off the bottom to propel themselves. Elephants swim and can handle deep lagoons, but matriarchal herds with their calves prefer mid-level or shallow depths. Lions and leopards seek dry ground.

“The best way to experience the Okavango is to do a trip that combines land-based camps with hybrid camps-- those offering water as well as land experiences. If interested in birds, also stay at a camp totally surrounded by water,” says Darren Humphreys, owner of Travel Sommelier, a company specializing in luxury safaris and wine tourism. 

For the best of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, follow this guide.

Among our favorite camps, Vumbura Plains, a hybrid camp, showcases a diversity of animals and pampers with ultra-luxurious, contemporary accommodations and great food. On a boat ride we eye hippos in the channel and savor the signature Delta scene of watery expanses laced with reeds. To catch sight of animals on the vast plains, land drives can be long and contain stretches of few animals. Nonetheless, one day we find an impala herd, warthogs, zebras, and baboons as well as watch a female lion hunting with her somewhat inept offspring. We also enjoy a rare sighting of a pack of wild dogs, a critically endangered species.

Vumbura, among the Delta’s most luxurious lodges, divides its 14 units into two camps. Each huge platform tent features a sprawling deck with a private plunge pool and a room that’s bigger than many Manhattan apartments. A wall of screens faces the marshy plain. Enjoy the view from the bed, the couch-lined sitting area, or even the shower that looks out onto the plains.  One day while rinsing off, we turn to stare at an elephant slowly munching the trees outside.

Per-person rates from about $1,300 in non-flood season to $2,200, June through October.  

At Abu, another favorite game lodge, we savor close encounters with the camp’s 6 elephants. As soon as we arrive at the elephant boma (corral), 7-month old Naledi runs over to us like a curious toddler, greeting us with a head butt. On walks in the wild with the herd we watch how Cathy, the matriarch, and Shirheni, Naledi’s adopted mother, nudge the calf through streams. We sit eye-level to the tree branches on elephant-back outings. When Cathy curls her trunk over her head towards us, her warm breath floats over our hand and when she rumbles, we feel her body vibrate. Afterward, we feed the elephants fistfuls of pellets, ogling their immense mouths and rows of molars. On game drives we view lechwe jumping through the wetlands and see giraffes and zebras, and at this combination land and water camp.

The 6-unit camp, decorated in shades of gray and beige, exudes an upscale casual feel. Each tent has Wi-Fi. One evening, we relax by leaning back in the deep tub on our deck to soak in a bubble bath by candlelight.

The food is tasty and the service, excellent. Per-person rates from about $1,800 in non-flood season to $2,600, June through October.

Located on Chief’s Island, the Okavango’s largest landmass, Mombo, a land-based facility, rates as a top camp. Mombo’s location gives it prime access to some of the Delta’s densest concentration of animals. We see herds of impala, zebra and elephant as well as spotted hyena and giraffe. The highlight: a pride of lions with young cubs. We watch the months-old critters nurse, climb on their moms, and paw each other in play. In addition, Chief’s Island has rhino that have been recently relocated from South Africa to better protect them from poachers.  

Mombo’s nine unit camp was rebuilt in 2000. Although comfortable, the room’s long and narrow configuration is somewhat awkward for us and the beds are surprisingly small. Instead of the double or full twins at other lodges, Mombo’s units have almost cot-like beds. That said, the lodge serves good food and delivers first-rate wildlife sightings.

Per-person rates from about $1,800 in non-flood season to about $2,600 June through October.

Wilderness Safaris operates but does not book camps. To inquire about accommodations and safaris, contact Travel Sommelier, 

Botswana's Okavango Delta, stretching for some 4.45 million acres, reigns as the world's largest inland delta.

How to Explore Botswana's Okavango Delta

For animal lovers and work-weary urbanites like us, an African safari is a dream trip. There is something joyous about watching a herd of elephants lumber across a grassy plain, lanky giraffe munch lazily from the tops of trees, and ostriches, necks swaying rhythmically, high step into the sunset. 

But some travelers, no matter how much they yearn for a safari, resist this special vacation. Here are some tips that can help you plan.  

Beware of bargains, although it’s tempting to search for savings on such a big-ticket item as a safari.

“It’s all about the quality,” says Darren Humphreys, owner of Travel Sommelier, a luxury safari and wine travel company. “You pay for the quality of the vehicles, the quality and location of the camp, and for knowledgeable guides. You want an operator that has back-up vehicles in case one breaks down and guides who know how to track animals. Wilderness Safaris offers prime locations and an infrastructure without compare.”

Wilderness Safaris, and some other top companies, lease concessions long-term and work with local communities to create sustainable tourism. In private concessions, you won’t be sucking in the dust of a string of Land Rovers and Jeeps as they all race to surround the same lion.

For example, Botswana’s Moremi Game Reserve, on Chief’s Island, is open to the public. Day trippers driving their own vehicles crowd the park. “In Moremi you cannot drive after sunset or before sunrise. You do not see the last kill of the night and you cannot track animals off road,” says Humphreys. A luxury lodge, Mombo Camp, on Chief’s Island near Moremi offers a totally different experience that includes no more than three vehicles at a sighting, at often only one. That gives you a chance to experience the wilderness as well as the wild life.

Stay in an upmarket hotel pre or post safari

Yes, there is crime in Africa's cities, but likely no more than in the same size US, UK, or European metro region. Depending upon your flights, you may land in Nairobi, Arusha, Dar es Salaam, or Johannesburg just long enough to transfer to where your safari begins.

If you require an overnight, a savvy safari operator books you into a good hotel in a safe neighborhood. We always felt comfortable. In Kenya we stayed at the Nairobi Serena Hotel, in Tanzania we lodged at Dar es Salaam's Hyatt Kilimanjaro, and in Johannesburg we got over jet lag at the plush Westcliff in an upscale Johannesburg suburb. Undergoing renovations, the Westcliff is slated to debut in December as a luxury Four Seasons’ property. 

Choose the right pace and the right camps for a family safari

Be sure to fly between distant game parks. Long van drives provide ample opportunities for boredom and squabbles about windows, seat space, and almost anything.

Be certain that the van is large enough so that everyone has a window seat plus room for cameras. A 9-passenger van should not be booked for more than 6 people.

Stay at least 2 nights at lodges. Changing accommodations every night gets the family cranky from packing and unpacking plus you won’t really get to enjoy the lodges. 

Book camps with family rooms. Since most tents sleep just 2 people, a family of 3 or more will require 2 tents unless the camp offers family rooms. Family units at many of Wilderness Safaris’ camps feature either extra large tents or 2 tents connected by a sitting area. 

Going on safari can be the trip of a lifetime, but it's also a major investment. Here are some tips to make the best of your once-in-a-lifetime trip.

Candyce H. Stapen

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